Your Kitchen Remodel Questions
Kitchen remodeling can create anxiety because of the costs involved and apprehension because of the complexity. However, the reward can be great. So rest assured it just takes a little information and patience to create a workable remodel plan. So let’s start by answering Your Kitchen Remodel Questions.
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Q. Is it a big deal to move my stove to another wall? I keep getting different opinions. S. Abnelli, Van Nuys, CA
Big deal, no. But it does take a bit of thought. Things to take into account when moving the stove to a new location:
- move electrical connection, may need to upgrade to meet current code
- relocate gas line, if using gas
- relocate exhaust ducting in ceiling
- if micro was over stove, where will it go
- is there anything located in the wall at the new location that could present a challenge for the gas, electrical or ducting (like plumbing pipes or structural elements)
- will you have enough space to provide at least a 12″ countertop on each side of the stove
Q. Is an exhaust hood over my stove required? T. Duckworth, Seattle, WA
Best to check with your local code. Some areas require an exhaust hood while others don’t. But look at it from a practical standpoint, why wouldn’t you want one? Most obviously it will exhaust the heavy smells from aromatic cooking, it removes smell that could linger in your home like fish, and it will pull steam and smoke out of the room. In general, they are very beneficial.
Q. Is it ok for the island cabinets to be a different color from the other cabinets in my kitchen? J.B. Hawthorn, Paris, KY
Absolutely. Not only will it look nice when colors are well coordinated, but it will make your kitchen look more custom. Besides, I have done this on many occasions with great results.
Q. How much should my kitchen cabinets cost? B. Johnstone, Henderson, NV
This is a tough question since there are so many variables. First, if I were to start creating a budget I would say that prefabricated or RTA cabinets would run about $100 to $150 per linear foot. Then, to be able to have more color options and size availability there are the semi-custom cabinets that will likely run between $175 to $350 per linear foot. But, semi-custom cabinets can be taken to almost a custom level for a price: upwards of $450 to $750 per linear foot. Then finally, custom cabinets can range from $900 to $1,200 per linear foot.
From a global cost perspective the cost of cabinets as part of a line item in a budget would be somewhere between 15% to 35%. Of course, still big variation.
Your takeaway on this topic is that there are a lot of differences in cabinet options, how cabinets are laid out in a kitchen, and what can be done with cabinets. Also, each family and home has different requirements and needs which impact the final price of the cabinets. Consequently, the cost of cabinets within a kitchen can vary considerably.
The best suggestion I can offer is to use the per linear foot costs to get your initial range numbers to create a preliminary budget. Then get real quotes based your kitchen cabinet layout. Then next, start with a lesser expensive semi-custom line of cabinets to give you a reasonable price. From there, if necessary, you have the ability to save money by going to the prefabricated or RTA cabinets that have less options but are lower priced.
Q. What do I need to know about floating shelves if I want to use them for storing my dishes? J. Gasternum, Pleasant Ridge, Michigan
Be careful, not all floating shelves can handle the weight. Therefore, my suggestion is to get plywood or solid wood floating shelves. Additionally, you’ll need to get a metal mounting bracket that gets secured to the wall to support the weight. Further check the specs because each bracket will have a weight capacity based on depth and length of shelves. Also, the bracket should be anchored into the 2×4 wall studs. Better yet, remove the drywall and add 2x blocking in the wall between the studs to ensure that all bracket screws anchor into solid wood.
For plates I would recommend a 12″ deep shelf. But to be safe measure your plates to make sure the shelf is deep enough. Hate to have a 11-3/4″ plate hang over the edge of your 10″ deep floating shelves.
Your Kitchen Remodel Questions answered.
Q. I don’t want to get new cabinets but need to maximize my storage and accessibility, what do you recommend? Z. Hollington, Columbus, OH
There are several companies that provide after market inserts for cabinets. For instance, your drawers can have inserts/dividers for silverware and knives. Then there are tray divider brackets that can be installed into base or upper cabinets to create storage for cookie sheets, wire racks, and cutting boards. Also, roll-out trays can be added to base cabinets and pantries. One of the companies that I have used is called Rev-A-Shelf.
For roll-out trays you can make them yourself. You can also order them online ready to install. Another option is to purchase them in a knock-down version ready for assembly and install. Also, you can find a local guy who does this and have them installed for you. It also really depends on how much you have going on with your project in general. Additionally, if you have them made, assemble them yourself, it saves money on the trays and shipping.
Q. At what height should my upper cabinets be installed? L. Petty, Chicago, IL
The standard height is 54″ off the floor which provides an 18″ space between the countertop and cabinet. However, I feel that is a little short, so I prefer to have my cabinets set at 56″ so I have 20″ of space. Overall, this works better for taller items on the counter like coffee makers, knife blocks and juicers.
In kitchens where I am putting a designated ‘coffee station’ I will often set the upper cabinets at 60″ from the floor giving a generous 24″ of space from countertop to cabinet for coffee brewers because they often sit on a tray for the pods and have lift up lids to pour in water. It also provides enough room for blenders and juicers.
Q. I want an open concept kitchen which means taking out a wall, people I talked to keep trying to talk me out of it – help! J. Fletchen, Lodi, California
Unless they have done it themselves, don’t listen. Their information is most likely second hand and not fully informed. I have done many projects where walls were removed. It just takes some information and planning.
The first thing I would like to do away with is the myth that structural walls cannot be removed. They can. But you have to replace the structural elements so some planning is required.
To remove a wall you need to know why it is there in the first place. It could be:
- a structural wall
- a non-load bearing partition wall separating rooms
- holding up a drop ceiling
- there to handle the plumbing pipes coming from the floor above, if you have a second floor
- most likely has electrical wires running through it
With that being said, create a plan.
If it is structural, get someone with experience involved to determine how you are going to transfer the load (you’ll most likely be adding a beam, 2 posts, and 2 footings). Further, getting a permit will be the best approach here. Because that way you’ll be making sure it meets current code requirements. Plus there will be another set of eyes looking over the work being done.
Load bearing or not open up the rest of the drywall to see what is hidden in the wall to determine what has to be move since the wall is being removed. Even the most experienced DIYer should seek some professional assistance with this kind of work. A designer can create the new layout, determine what needs to be relocated, and possibly even estimate the potential costs so you can make a determination if this is something you really want to do.
Q. I’m thinking of a kitchen remodel, and want to solve a problem that frustrates me – the breaker trips every time I use my microwave and toaster oven. Can this be fixed? C. Belling, Phoenix, AZ
I hear this a lot. You have an older electrical panel and most likely the microwave and the toaster are on the same circuit. The toaster is plugged into an outlet that is probably original. Later someone added the micro and tapped into the same wire to create the outlet for it. Both the microwave and the toaster pull a lot of amperage when on.
The quick fix is don’t use them at the same time. But since you brought this up that isn’t a doable option. The next low cost idea is to move the toaster to a different outlet, it might be on a different circuit, turn them both on to test if that will work.
If the breaker still trips, them you need to run a new wire from the electrical panel to the microwave creating a dedicated circuit for the microwave. I say you, actually meaning a licensed electrician should do the work unless you are experience at electrical work. This would be the best fix overall since it permanently solves the problem.
Q. What is an RTA cabinet, are they good? W. Smith, Las Vegas, NV
RTA stands for Ready to Assemble. Over the last few years more of these kinds of cabinets have entered the market. Each piece of a cabinet is built and finish stained/painted in the factory, then boxed unassembled. These cabinets are typically imported from other countries so the knock down (unassembled boxed version) makes shipping easier. Because they are produced in large quantities, in limited sizes, and colors they are cheaper than most cabinets. There are some advantages and disadvantages, but as long as you are willing to assemble the cabinet they are an inexpensive way to go.
But let me add, in the last couple of years there are some American companies who have entered the RTA cabinet market that are producing quality cabinets that you can still assemble yourself. If you are looking for American-made you’ll just have to do a little research.
Final Comments
I hope you have found the answers to Your Kitchen Remodel Questions helpful. Over the years I have been involved in many kitchen remodel projects and it just seems like each one has its own nuances and challenges. So please, if you do not see the answer to one of your questions here add it in the comments so it can be addressed in another post (please include your name, first name initial and last name plus city and state); it’s fun to see where everyone is from.
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